How to Attach Siding to a Shipping Container


Shipping containers are built to withstand the high seas and punishing storms while remaining water tight. But, when they are used for a building, siding can add some additional beauty.

There are some key points that need to be considered if siding is installed onto shipping containers that is different from conventional construction.

To attach siding onto shipping containers, special methods are used to attach blocking onto the corrugated metal walls without creating penetrations that can allow water to travel inside from the outside. These methods include adhesives, welding, and/or a limited amount of mechanical fasteners (or screws).

We will explore three popular methods that contractors use to attach siding to shipping containers.

But, before you do anything to the outside of the shipping container, do this…

Getting Your Shipping Container Ready for Siding

Be sure that there are no rusty, moldy, or corroded surfaces. You don’t want to cover over any damaged surfaces because they will only compound after being exposed to freeze/thaw cycles and water while being hidden behind the siding.

Take care of any welded areas before covering them with siding too. The shipping containers have been built with a Cor-Ten steel. This type of steel is designed to protect itself by rusting on its outer surface. That’s good for shipping containers. But, you don’t want to cover over rust with siding.

If you would like to learn more about the Cor-ten steel used to build shipping containers, check out the article titled, “Do Container Homes Rust?”

Since it is not good to conceal any rusting areas with siding. Paint that surface first. Even if you will not see the painted surface, you will be glad later when the rust doesn’t corrode through the concealed metal corrugated walls while not being detected because it was covered up with siding.

These Design Points Apply to All Three Siding Installation Methods Discussed Below

All of the options below include spray-on closed cell foam insulation. To learn more about which type of insulation to use, read the article about Insulation types

The finished walls on the following options is 5/8″ thick gypsum wallboard onto 3-5/8″ metal studs at 16″ o.c. the size of studs you select depends on the depth of insulation you want to use and the structural loads that need to be supported.

You might find you need to a “type x” gypsum board if you are needing to create a fire rated wall assembly.

The type of siding you choose is up to you. To help you select the best type of siding to use you shipping containers, check out the article that discusses the five top types of sidings for shipping container homes at Top Five Sidings for Shipping Containers.

All of the siding shown on each of the three options below are with their joints going horizontally. If you want your seams to be vertical, then the blocking will need to run the other way (side to side instead of up and down).

Be sure to lap your seams so you can keep the rain from passing through your siding. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended methods of installing the siding.

The top of the wall will need to be flashed to the roof and the bottom of the siding will need to be above the ground level to prevent water from wicking up and behind the siding.

If there are two shipping containers stacked upon each other, then you will need to detail a flashing or banding that will terminate the siding from the upper shipping container and begin the siding on the lower one.

Now, with all that said, let’s look at three methods of installing siding onto your shipping container:

Method 1: Use Wooden Blocking

METHOD 1: PLAN SECTION

The thickness of method one is less than the other two methods. So, if you want siding on your home, but have reasons to not build out from the walls of the shipping container any further than necessary, this method might be the best one for your home.

This method uses split 2 x 6 pressure treated wooden boards (lets call it 2 x 3 that is nominally 1-1/2″ x 2-3/4″) as blocking that are glued to the flutes of the shipping container’s flutes.

A flute, in terms of building elements, is the in and out profile of a surface. You will find flutes all around Corinthian columns of the buildings of classic Greek architecture. The corrugation on the shipping containers is also called flutes.

Some contractors glue these 2 x 3’s onto the flutes with a construction adhesive called PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. Here is the link to that product: Construction Adhesive

You might want to add mechanical fasteners, such as self-tapping stainless steel exterior grade non-corrosive screws. Be sure to waterproof around any penetrating screws at the shipping container metal walls. Put this waterproofing on the exterior and interior surfaces being penetrated and over the screws.

The waterproofing needs to be elastic so it doesn’t get brittle and crack with age.

If you use screws, be sure they are not so long that they will pass through the finished walls.

Prevent water from running behind the blocking that is glued to the flutes by adding a bead of sealant continuously along both sides of the blocking.

Instead of sealant, contractors have been reported to use the same construction adhesive all along the two sides of the blocking.

Like the waterproofing around the screws that penetrate the walls, read the manufacturer’s recommended use and be mindful about how elastic the beading will remain. You don’t want to use a sealant that will get brittle and crack with age.

Method 2: Use Heavy Gauge Metal Blocking

METHOD 2: PLAN SECTION

Instead of using wood blocking to attached the siding onto like the Method 1 above, Method 2 uses heavy gauge metal “hat” furring channels to attached the siding onto.

Be sure to use the heaviest gauge that “hat” channels are made so it will survive the welding connection to the shipping container walls.

Some welders claim that it is not possible to weld metal “hat’ channels because they say that the weld will just burn right through the channel. But, there are plenty more experience welders who have had success doing so without damaging the “hat” channels.

So, choose your experienced welder well.

After welding the “hat” channels onto the outside surfaces of the shipping container, the metal will be more vulnerable to rusting in the future at the welds. This is true at both sides of the welded surfaces.

Be sure to paint over the welded area with a rust inhibiting paint before applying the siding over it.

Method 3: Use a Combination of Metal Angles and Wooden Blocking

METHOD 3: PLAN SECTION

This method is the fattest and chunkiest method of the three.

The siding is attached to pressure treated wood blocking.

The wood blocking is bolted to continuous painted metal angles.

The painted metal angles are welded to the outside of the shipping container.

As mentioned above in method two, anywhere the metals are welded, be sure to coat it with rust inhibiting paint at both sides of the welded surfaces before covering it with siding.

Disclaimer

Please note that the author has not used these methods, yet, on his own projects. If you choose to use any of these methods, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, test in a controlled smaller area before applying it to the entire project.

The sources of these three methods are from YouTube videos by 3rd parties. Here are the links to those YouTube videos by Containing Luxury and Shelter Mode.

Quality Control

Before you add siding to your shipping container, be sure to check with the local construction codes. Also, choose an experienced and competent contractor to do the work for you.

Larry Lane

Larry is the creator of "Live in a Container." He is a registered architect who has designed buildings for over 3 decades and is passionate about creating spaces for people.

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